By Stephanie Dickison
Since 1996, the Ferreira family (Dad Dorindo, Mom Graca, son Frank and daughter Teresa) have owned Alex Rei Dos Leitoes on Ossington specializing in Portuguese churassco chicken and meals. The new Moliceiro restaurant next door – named after the gondola-shaped boat popular in Portugal - is a more modern interpretation of Portuguese fare in a comfortable, rustic setting.
The dinner menu includes a long list of starts and mains and five desserts, with gluten-free and vegan options available. Brunch includes a variety of egg dishes (Swiss Miss Piggy Omelet $11, Cod Cakes Benny $12) as well as savoury selections (Chicken or Pork Quesadillas $12, Moliceiro Salad with apple almond fritter $7). Many dishes are cooked next door on the charcoal barbecue and in the wood oven, adding a smoky element to the food. and whole spit-roasted piglets (approximately $450 for a party of 8) are available when ordered in advance.
Feel like you’re at seaside with a Portuguese Sagres ($6.50) or Superbock ($6.50) beer in hand, or choose from other bottles as well as rotating taps. Cocktails are split into "Old World Inspired" selections – Ruby Port Lemonade ($7) and Micaelense ($12) – and "Modern Favourites" – "Dom" Caesar ($7/$5 for brunch) and Dark ‘n’ Stormy ($9). Bitters, tonics and syrups are made in house. And Portuguese wines complete the experience, though Canadian and Spanish selections are also on hand. Soon to come – Arkos for pairing with roasted piglet and Beer Martinis, a drink trending in Portugal right now.
The rustic room’s best feature is the wall-size sepia photo of Papa Dorindo at the wood oven near the back, and the collection of black-and-white family photos in the middle. Blue-hued glass orbs hang over the front dining area as an ode to the boat/seaside theme. And while the padded dining chairs might be a tad formal for the space, they’re very comfortable.
At the Stove: Chef Keith Rees FOH: Frank Bento
Moliceiro seats 40 guests and is open for dinner and brunch six days a week, closed Mondays. Take out and dine in available. Visiting Hours: Tues & Wed 5:30-9pm Thurs to Sat 5:30-10pm Sunday 5:30 – 9pm Sat & Sun 10am-3pm for brunch Plans to expand hours are in the works. Map It: 217 Ossington Ave. (at Dundas) Phone It In: (647) 560-0257 Check out our Facebook page for more photos.